Assetto Corsa (AC) setups
Learn how to dial in your car in Assetto Corsa: what every setup parameter does, what changes when you raise or lower it, and where AC stores its setups. All reconstructed 1:1 against the real in-game editor, so you stop copying setups you don't understand.
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Where setups are stored
Assetto Corsa stores setups as .ini files in Documents\Assetto Corsa\setups\<car>\<track>\ (one folder per car and track). You can drop the .ini there and load it from the in-game garage screen (source: OverTake.gg and Steam Community threads citing this same path).
What each parameter does
The 25 settings you can tune in AC, with what each one does and the effect of raising or lowering it.
Ranges flagged as estimated are inferred from the car's physics when the editor doesn't show the slider limit; the rest come from verified in-game captures.
Tyres
Front tyre pressure
Range: 16 – 34 psiEstimated rangeCold pressure on the front tyre. In AC1 road cars run around 26-28 psi and competition GT cars 21-24 psi (source: apexsimapps.com); this catalogue's default is generic road, competition classes lower it (see per-category overrides). (slider range estimated)
- If you increase ↑
- Sharper response but less contact patch and more heat; too high and the tyre loses grip from overinflation.
- If you decrease ↓
- More contact patch and mechanical grip, but vaguer response and risk of overheating from flex.
Rear tyre pressure
Range: 16 – 34 psiEstimated rangeSame as front but on the rear axle: affects traction and rear stability. Same source and same generic road-default criterion. (slider range estimated)
- If you increase ↑
- Twitchier rear with less grip; can step out on power.
- If you decrease ↓
- More traction and rear stability, until pressure drops so low it overheats.
Alignment
Front camber
Range: -4.5 – -0.3 °Estimated rangeWheel lean seen from the front. More negative = more cornering grip, less under braking/straights. Unit source: apexsimapps.com, overtake.gg (both confirm degrees). (estimated range)
- If you increase ↑
- Toward 0 (less negative) improves braking and even wear, but lowers grip while loaded.
- If you decrease ↓
- More negative gives more lateral grip in corners, costing braking and inner-edge temps.
Rear camber
Range: -4 – -0.2 °Estimated rangeRear axle camber, typically a bit less negative than the front. Controls how much lateral grip the rear has in corners. (estimated range)
- If you increase ↑
- Toward 0 improves straight-line traction but the rear grips less laterally.
- If you decrease ↓
- More negative stabilises the rear when loaded, costing some pure traction.
Front toe
Range: -0.3 – 0.2 °Estimated rangeWhere the wheels point seen from above. Negative (toe-out) = sharper turn-in. Unit confirmed as degrees by a thread on Kunos' own official forum, BUT that same thread notes AC1's UI can show the number WITHOUT an explicit decimal point depending on the car (e.g. "46" = 0.46°): always check that specific car's in-game tooltip before copying a value by hand. (estimated range)
- If you increase ↑
- Toward toe-in (positive) adds straight-line stability but lazier turn-in.
- If you decrease ↓
- More toe-out sharpens entry, with a bit more nervousness and wear.
Rear toe
Range: -0.1 – 0.4 °Estimated rangeRear axle toe. More toe-in (positive) = more rear stability. Same on-screen reading ambiguity note as front toe (see above). (estimated range)
- If you increase ↑
- More toe-in greatly stabilises the rear on power, costing a touch of top speed.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less toe-in frees the rear for more rotation, but less stability.
Suspension & mechanical grip
Front anti-roll bar
Range: 0 – 10Estimated rangeHow much the front axle resists roll. Stiffer = less relative front grip. AC1 shows it as 'clicks' with no documented physical unit (source: community setup threads). (estimated scale)
- If you increase ↑
- Stiffer front = more understeer (front slides first). Useful if the rear is loose.
- If you decrease ↓
- Softer front = more front grip and rotation; fixes understeer.
Rear anti-roll bar
Range: 0 – 10Estimated rangeRear axle roll resistance. Stiffer = sharper rear and less rear grip. (estimated scale, no documented physical unit)
- If you increase ↑
- Stiffer rear = more rotation/oversteer; helps understeer but loosens the rear.
- If you decrease ↓
- Softer rear = more traction and rear stability; fixes oversteer.
Front spring rate
Range: 30 – 220 N/mmEstimated rangeFront spring stiffness. Stiffer = the body dives/squats less and response is sharper, at the cost of following the road less well. (estimated range; N/mm unit confirmed, apexsimapps.com)
- If you increase ↑
- Stiffer front = a more stable, reactive platform, but less mechanical grip and more understeer over bumps.
- If you decrease ↓
- Softer front = more mechanical grip and better over bumps, but more pitch and vaguer response.
Rear spring rate
Range: 25 – 200 N/mmEstimated rangeRear spring stiffness. With the front it sets the stiffness balance (hence under/oversteer). (estimated range; confirmed unit)
- If you increase ↑
- Stiffer rear = more rotation and response, but less traction and a twitchier rear over bumps.
- If you decrease ↓
- Softer rear = more traction and stability, but more pitch and the rear squats on power.
Front ride height
Range: 30 – 140 mmEstimated rangeFront floor-to-ground distance. Lower = more aero load (on cars that use it) and a lower centre of gravity. (estimated range; mm unit confirmed by several community threads)
- If you increase ↑
- Raising gives more travel for kerbs/bumps and less bottoming, costing some grip.
- If you decrease ↓
- Lowering increases grip and response, but risks bottoming out and bouncing.
Rear ride height
Range: 35 – 150 mmEstimated rangeRear ride height. With the front it sets the floor's 'rake'. (estimated range; confirmed unit)
- If you increase ↑
- Raising the rear adds rake: on cars with real aero, more load and rotation, until it gets unstable if overdone.
- If you decrease ↓
- Lowering the rear stabilises the car at high speed, costing some rotation.
Dampers
Front slow bump
Range: 0 – 100 %Estimated rangeFront damper resistance to slow COMPRESSION (weight transfer under braking/turning), as % of the adjustment's available range (source: apexsimapps.com). (estimated scale; slow channel only in this batch)
- If you increase ↑
- Higher = the front dives more slowly (firmer platform), but follows the road less well.
- If you decrease ↓
- Lower = the front dives more freely (more mechanical grip), with more pitch.
Rear slow bump
Range: 0 – 100 %Estimated rangeRear damper resistance to slow compression, as % of the available range. Affects how the rear squats on power. (estimated scale)
- If you increase ↑
- Higher = the rear squats more slowly (more reactive), with slightly less initial traction.
- If you decrease ↓
- Lower = the rear squats more freely (more exit traction), with more movement.
Front slow rebound
Range: 0 – 100 %Estimated rangeFront damper resistance to slow EXTENSION (as the front rises again), as % of the available range. (estimated scale)
- If you increase ↑
- Higher = the front returns more slowly (holds load longer), but can stay 'hung'.
- If you decrease ↓
- Lower = the front recovers faster (better over repeated bumps), with less rebound control.
Rear slow rebound
Range: 0 – 100 %Estimated rangeRear damper resistance to slow extension, as % of the available range. Affects how the rear recovers ride height and how much load it holds. (estimated scale)
- If you increase ↑
- Higher = the rear returns more slowly (more stable), risking lost traction if it stays low.
- If you decrease ↓
- Lower = the rear recovers faster (more traction over bumps), with more movement.
Aerodynamics
Rear wing
Range: 0 – 12Estimated rangeRear aero device (wing/spoiler), on cars that have one. Higher = more rear load, less top speed. No uniform physical unit confirmed across the whole roster: modelled as a relative 0-12 scale. On road cars with no adjustable wing the value represents nothing real and stays at 0. (estimated scale, not representable in a single physical unit)
- If you increase ↑
- More wing stabilises the rear in fast corners and braking, costing straight-line speed.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less wing gives more top speed but the rear gets nervous at high speed.
Front aero (splitter / wing)
Range: 0 – 12Estimated rangeFront aero device: splitter on GT3/GT2, a two-element wing on the classic-GP/open-wheel cars in this catalogue, or non-existent on most road cars (stays at 0). Same abstract-scale criterion as the rear wing (see above): no uniform physical unit was found for the whole roster. (estimated scale)
- If you increase ↑
- More front aero = more corner-entry grip and less understeer, at the cost of top speed.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less front aero = more top speed but the front gets lazy on entry, especially in fast corners.
Brakes
Brake bias
Range: 45 – 75 %Estimated rangePercentage of braking sent to the front axle (the game's real field: FRONT_BIAS). Higher = more front brake. (estimated range; field name confirmed)
- If you increase ↑
- More forward = more stable braking, but more risk of locking the fronts and understeering.
- If you decrease ↓
- More rearward helps rotation on the brakes, with risk of locking the rear and instability.
Brake power
Range: 80 – 100 %Estimated rangeMultiplier for total braking power (the game's real field: BRAKE_POWER_MULT). Not cooling ducts: base AC1 does not expose a separate front/rear duct setting in the setup editor (unlike ACC). (estimated range; field name confirmed)
- If you increase ↑
- More power = shorter, harder braking, with more lock-up risk if the rest of the setup doesn't match.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less power = more progressive, easier-to-modulate braking, at the cost of stopping distance.
Differential
Differential preload
Range: 10 – 260 NmEstimated rangeHow much the diff locks under gentle throttle changes (confirmed unit: Nm, community source citing '170 Nm = differential fully locked'). High preload gives exit traction and stability but can oversteer under hard throttle; low preload frees rotation but can understeer on exit. (estimated range)
- If you increase ↑
- More preload = more locking: better exit traction and stability, but too much tends to snap the rear loose under hard throttle.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less preload frees rotation, but if it's too low the rear won't hook up and you get understeer on power-down.
Differential power lock
Range: 0 – 100 %Estimated rangePercentage the diff locks when you're on throttle (confirmed unit: %). Complements preload: unlike it, this acts on a progressive 0-100% on/off-style range. (slider range estimated)
- If you increase ↑
- More power lock = both rear wheels drive more evenly, but the car pushes wider exiting a corner.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less lock = more rotation freedom on exit, with risk of the inside wheel spinning alone.
Gearing
Gear ratio set
Range: 0 – 10Estimated rangeRelative scale of how short (acceleration) or tall (top speed) the car's gear ratios are. AC1 confirms gear ratios are adjustable as part of the setup (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assetto_Corsa), but there is no public table of each car's real numeric ratios. (estimated relative scale, no physical unit)
- If you increase ↑
- Taller ratios: more top speed, slightly slower acceleration per gear.
- If you decrease ↓
- Shorter ratios: livelier acceleration per gear, less top speed.
Electronics
Traction control (TC)
Range: 0 – 10Estimated rangeHow much it cuts power to stop wheelspin on throttle. Higher = intervenes earlier. Real only on the cars with factory TC (GT3/GT2/hypercars/some modern road cars in this batch); the classic GP and 1967-1990 touring cars have no real-world TC. (estimated 0-10 scale, not verified against each car's editor)
- If you increase ↑
- More TC = safer in the wet or low grip, but limits acceleration in the dry.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less TC = more raw acceleration if you can modulate; more risk of the rear stepping out.
ABS
Range: 0 – 10Estimated rangeHow much it prevents wheel lock under braking. Higher = more intervention. Real only on cars with factory ABS; the classic GP and touring cars in this batch predate racing ABS. (estimated 0-10 scale, not verified against each car's editor)
- If you increase ↑
- More ABS = safer braking and fewer flat-spots, especially in the wet; slightly longer braking.
- If you decrease ↓
- Less ABS = shorter, more tactile braking, but more risk of locking up.
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