Patagonia Sim RacingPatagoniaSim Racing
Setup guideCircuit

Assetto Corsa Competizione (ACC) setups

Developer: Kunos SimulazioniCircuitReleasedSetups importable by file

Learn how to dial in your car in Assetto Corsa Competizione: what every setup parameter does, what changes when you raise or lower it, and where ACC stores its setups. All reconstructed 1:1 against the real in-game editor, so you stop copying setups you don't understand.

Buy the pack — US$9.99Generate your ACC setupSee all 14 simulators

Free to start: you only need an account, no card.

Files

Where setups are stored

ACC stores setups as .json files in Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione/Setups/<car>/<track>. You can drop the setup there to import it in-game.

Glossary

What each parameter does

The 39 settings you can tune in ACC, with what each one does and the effect of raising or lowering it.

Ranges flagged as estimated are inferred from the car's physics when the editor doesn't show the slider limit; the rest come from verified in-game captures.

Tyres

  • Front tyre pressure

    Range: 20.3 – 35 psi

    Cold pressure you set on the front tyre. In ACC (Pirelli) the optimal HOT window for GT3 is around 26.0-27.0 psi; you start lower cold to reach it once rolling. The dry slider minimum is 20.3 psi (official v1.0.8 changelog).

    If you increase ↑
    Sharper response but less contact patch and more heat; too high and the tyre balloons and slides.
    If you decrease ↓
    More contact patch and mechanical grip, but vaguer response and risk of overheating from flex.

  • Rear tyre pressure

    Range: 20.5 – 35 psi

    Same as front but on the rear axle: affects traction and rear stability. Same hot window ~26-27 psi.

    If you increase ↑
    Twitchier rear with less grip; can step out on power.
    If you decrease ↓
    More traction and rear stability, until pressure drops so low it overheats.

Alignment

  • Front camber

    Range: -4.5 – -1 °Estimated range

    Wheel lean seen from the front. More negative = more cornering grip, less under braking/straights.

    If you increase ↑
    Toward 0 (less negative) improves braking and even wear, but lowers grip while loaded.
    If you decrease ↓
    More negative gives more lateral grip in corners, costing braking and inner-edge temps.

  • Rear camber

    Range: -4 – -0.5 °Estimated range

    Rear axle camber: controls how much lateral grip the rear has in corners.

    If you increase ↑
    Toward 0 improves straight-line traction but the rear grips less laterally.
    If you decrease ↓
    More negative stabilises the rear when loaded, costing some pure traction.

  • Front toe

    Range: -0.4 – 0.2 °Estimated range

    Where the wheels point seen from above. Negative (toe-out) = sharper turn-in.

    If you increase ↑
    Toward toe-in (positive) adds straight-line stability but lazier turn-in.
    If you decrease ↓
    More toe-out sharpens entry, with a bit more nervousness and wear.

  • Rear toe

    Range: -0.1 – 0.5 °Estimated range

    Rear axle toe. More toe-in (positive) = more rear stability.

    If you increase ↑
    More toe-in greatly stabilises the rear on power, costing a touch of top speed.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less toe-in frees the rear for more rotation, but less stability.

  • Caster

    Range: 5 – 16 °Estimated range

    Tilt of the steering axis seen from the side. More caster = stronger steering self-centring, more dynamic camber when turning (better cornering grip) and heavier steering.

    If you increase ↑
    More caster improves straight-line stability and loaded grip, but heavies the steering and loads the front under braking.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less caster lightens the steering and reduces self-centring, costing some stability and dynamic camber.

  • Steering ratio

    Range: 10 – 18Estimated range

    How many degrees of road wheel you get per degree of steering wheel. Higher = the wheel turns more for the same input (quicker, more direct steering).

    If you increase ↑
    More direct, reactive steering in tight corners, but twitchier at high speed.
    If you decrease ↓
    Calmer, more precise steering at high speed, but you turn the wheel more in hairpins.

Suspension & mechanical grip

  • Front anti-roll bar

    Range: 0 – 10Estimated range

    How much the front axle resists roll. Stiffer = less relative front grip.

    If you increase ↑
    Stiffer front = more understeer (front slides first). Useful if the rear is loose.
    If you decrease ↓
    Softer front = more front grip and rotation; fixes understeer.

  • Rear anti-roll bar

    Range: 0 – 10Estimated range

    Rear axle roll resistance. Stiffer = sharper rear and less rear grip.

    If you increase ↑
    Stiffer rear = more rotation/oversteer; helps understeer but loosens the rear.
    If you decrease ↓
    Softer rear = more traction and rear stability; fixes oversteer.

  • Front wheel rate

    Range: 100000 – 300000 N/mEstimated range

    Front spring stiffness (ACC shows it as 'wheel rate'). Stiffer = the body dives/squats less and response is sharper, at the cost of following the road less well.

    If you increase ↑
    Stiffer front = a more stable, reactive platform, but less mechanical grip and more understeer over bumps.
    If you decrease ↓
    Softer front = more mechanical grip and better over bumps, but more pitch and vaguer response.

  • Rear wheel rate

    Range: 80000 – 280000 N/mEstimated range

    Rear spring stiffness. With the front it sets the stiffness balance (hence under/oversteer) and how the aero platform works.

    If you increase ↑
    Stiffer rear = more rotation and response, but less traction and a twitchier rear over bumps.
    If you decrease ↓
    Softer rear = more traction and stability, but more pitch and the rear squats on power.

  • Front bump stop rate

    Range: 100 – 2500 NEstimated range

    Stiffness of the bump stop that catches the end of front suspension travel. Higher = a harder stop, so the car rebounds before bottoming out.

    If you increase ↑
    Stiffer = protects the floor better, at the cost of a harsher hit when reaching the stop.
    If you decrease ↓
    Softer = a smoother transition into the stop, but more risk of bottoming under high load.

  • Rear bump stop rate

    Range: 100 – 5000 NEstimated range

    Same as front but on the rear axle: stiffness of the stop at the end of travel.

    If you increase ↑
    Stiffer = rear better protected from bottoming, with a sharper hit at the stop.
    If you decrease ↓
    Softer = smoother transition, with more risk of bottoming at the rear.

  • Front bump stop range

    Range: 0 – 30 mmEstimated range

    How much free travel the front suspension has before it hits the bump stop. More range = the car can compress further before reaching the stop.

    If you increase ↑
    More range = more usable travel (better over bumps/kerbs), but the floor can drop more and rub.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less range = the suspension reaches the stop sooner, keeping the aero ride height more constant.

  • Rear bump stop range

    Range: 0 – 50 mmEstimated range

    Free travel of the rear suspension before the stop. Key for traction: too little and the rear hangs on the stop under power.

    If you increase ↑
    More range = the rear can compress further (more traction and better over bumps), dropping the floor a bit.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less range = a more constant rear ride height for the aero, but less travel to put power down.

  • Front ride height

    Range: 50 – 90 mmEstimated range

    Front floor-to-ground distance. Lower = more aero load and lower centre of gravity.

    If you increase ↑
    Raising gives more travel for kerbs/bumps and less bottoming, costing some grip.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lowering increases aero grip and response, but risks bottoming out and bouncing.

  • Rear ride height

    Range: 50 – 100 mmEstimated range

    Rear ride height. With the front it sets the 'rake' that loads the diffuser.

    If you increase ↑
    Raising the rear adds rake: more aero load and rotation, until it gets unstable if overdone.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lowering the rear stabilises the car at high speed, costing some rotation.

Dampers

  • Front slow bump

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Front damper resistance to slow COMPRESSION (weight transfer under braking/turning). Controls how much the front dives.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = the front dives more slowly (firmer platform), but follows the road less well.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the front dives more freely (more mechanical grip), with more pitch.

  • Rear slow bump

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Rear damper resistance to slow compression. Affects how the rear squats on power.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = the rear squats more slowly (more reactive), with slightly less initial traction.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the rear squats more freely (more exit traction), with more movement.

  • Front fast bump

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Front damper resistance to FAST compressions (kerbs, bumps, joints). Controls the reaction to sharp impacts.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = firmer over kerbs, but the hit transmits more and it can skip.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = absorbs kerbs and bumps better (more stable over them).

  • Rear fast bump

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Rear damper resistance to fast compressions. Key for rear stability over kerbs.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = firmer rear over kerbs, with more risk of it bouncing.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the rear absorbs kerbs better, keeping traction.

  • Front slow rebound

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Front damper resistance to slow EXTENSION (as the front rises again). Controls how the front rebounds after compressing.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = the front returns more slowly (holds load longer), but can stay 'hung'.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the front recovers faster (better over repeated bumps), with less rebound control.

  • Rear slow rebound

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Rear damper resistance to slow extension. Affects how the rear recovers ride height and how much load it holds.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = the rear returns more slowly (more stable), risking lost traction if it stays low.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the rear recovers faster (more traction over bumps), with more movement.

  • Front fast rebound

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Front damper resistance to FAST extension (coming off a kerb or bump). Controls how the wheel resettles after the impact.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = the wheel returns more controlled after the kerb, but can lift off the road.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the wheel regains contact faster after the impact (more grip over kerbs).

  • Rear fast rebound

    Range: 0 – 30Estimated range

    Rear damper resistance to fast extension. Key so the rear doesn't lift coming off kerbs.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher = rear more controlled after the kerb, risking the wheel lifting.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower = the rear resettles faster (more traction over kerbs).

Aerodynamics

  • Rear wing

    Range: 0 – 12

    Rear wing angle: makes downforce at the rear. More wing = more grip, less top speed.

    If you increase ↑
    More wing stabilises the rear in fast corners and braking, costing straight-line speed.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less wing gives more top speed but the rear gets nervous at high speed.

  • Front splitter

    Range: 0 – 5Estimated range

    Front splitter position: regulates front downforce. Higher = more front load (shifts the aero balance forward).

    If you increase ↑
    More splitter = more front aero grip (less high-speed understeer), costing a little top speed.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less splitter = less front load (aero balance rearward), with a lighter front at speed.

Brakes

  • Brake bias

    Range: 50 – 70 %

    Percentage of braking sent to the front axle. Higher = more front brake.

    If you increase ↑
    More forward = more stable braking, but more risk of locking the fronts and understeering.
    If you decrease ↓
    More rearward helps rotation on the brakes, with risk of locking the rear and instability.

  • Brake power

    Range: 80 – 100 %Estimated range

    Maximum brake pressure available at full pedal. Higher = more peak braking force (easier to lock).

    If you increase ↑
    More power = shorter braking but easier to lock; demands more pedal feel.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less power = harder to lock and more modulable, at the cost of slightly longer braking.

  • Front brake ducts

    Range: 0 – 6Estimated range

    How much air cools the front brakes. Higher = cooler brakes, but a bit more aero drag.

    If you increase ↑
    More duct = cooler front brakes and tyres (better in long races/heat), costing a touch of top speed.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less duct = hotter brakes (better in the cold or single laps) and a bit less drag.

  • Rear brake ducts

    Range: 0 – 6

    Same as front but on the rear axle: rear brake cooling (and, in turn, rear tyre temperature).

    If you increase ↑
    More duct = cooler rear brakes and tyres; useful if the rear overheats in long stints.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less duct = more rear heat (better in the cold), with a little less drag.

  • Front brake pad

    Range: 1 – 4

    Front brake pad compound (1-4). Each compound has different bite, temperature window and wear. Compound 2 is the GT3 all-round choice.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher compounds change bite and fade resistance; some last longer but bite differently.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower compounds bite differently and have another temperature window; pick per race length.

  • Rear brake pad

    Range: 1 – 4

    Rear brake pad compound (1-4). Usually matched to the front; changing it shifts the effective bias and rear bite.

    If you increase ↑
    Higher compounds change rear bite and fade resistance.
    If you decrease ↓
    Lower compounds change the temperature window and rear bite.

Differential

  • Differential preload

    Range: 20 – 300 Nm

    How much the diff locks under gentle throttle changes. In ACC, high preload gives exit traction and stability but can oversteer under hard throttle; low preload frees rotation but can understeer on exit.

    If you increase ↑
    More preload = more locking: better exit traction and stability, but too much tends to snap the rear loose under hard throttle.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less preload frees rotation, but if it's too low the rear won't hook up and you get understeer on power-down.

Electronics

  • Traction control (TC)

    Range: 1 – 8

    How much it cuts power to stop wheelspin on throttle. Higher = intervenes earlier. The in-game table runs 1 to 8.

    If you increase ↑
    More TC = safer in the wet or low grip, but limits acceleration in the dry.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less TC = more raw acceleration if you can modulate; more risk of the rear stepping out.

  • ABS

    Range: 1 – 12

    How much it prevents wheel lock under braking. Higher = more intervention. The in-game table runs 1 to 12.

    If you increase ↑
    More ABS = safer braking and fewer flat-spots, especially in the wet; slightly longer braking.
    If you decrease ↓
    Less ABS = shorter, more tactile braking, but more risk of locking up.

  • Engine map (ECU)

    Range: 1 – 8Estimated range

    Engine delivery map: changes the power curve, throttle response and fuel/temperatures. Higher isn't always 'more power'; each map targets a use (qualifying, race, fuel-save, rain).

    If you increase ↑
    Changing up the map alters delivery (sometimes more aggressive, sometimes fuel-saving): test which gives the best feel and consumption.
    If you decrease ↓
    Changing down the map usually softens delivery or saves fuel; useful in rain or long stints.

  • Traction Control 2 (TC2)

    Range: 0 – 11Estimated range

    A second traction control working alongside the main TC: TC sets the general level and TC2 tunes how abruptly wheelspin is cut once it crosses the threshold. Higher = a smoother/more progressive cut.

    If you increase ↑
    More TC2 = a smoother, more progressive traction cut (more manageable in the wet/low grip).
    If you decrease ↓
    Less TC2 = a sharper, more direct cut: more reactive, with less safety net.
Free diagnosis

Is the car already doing something wrong?

Tell us what you feel on track and we'll tell you which ACC parameter to move, which way and why. No account needed.

Setup pack

Prefer ACC setups already built and explained as a PDF, instead of generating them one at a time?

Buy the pack — US$9.99

Dial in your ACC in minutes

Pick your car, track and conditions and get an exact setup with the reasoning behind every change. Free to start.

Generate your ACC setup

The generator asks you to create a free account: pick a car, track and conditions and get exact values with the reasoning behind every change.