Automobilista 2: oversteer on corner entry — what to change
What it feels like
As you release the brake and turn in, the rear steps out and the car rotates too much before the apex.
Why it happens and what we're after
Entry oversteer: move brake bias forward, close the diff's coast ramp (smaller angle = more lock) to calm the rear off-throttle, and add rear toe-in.
What to change, exactly
Ranges, steps and defaults are the REAL ones for this sim. The amount is expressed in the game's own unit so you can apply it without converting anything.
Parameters flagged as “estimated range” do not come from a verified in-game capture: the direction of the change is right, the exact magnitude may differ on your car.
1.Brake bias
Raise ↑ by 1.5 %3 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: 50.0 – 65.0 % · Default: 58.0 %
Percentage of braking sent to the front axle. Higher = more front brake. (unit and order of magnitude confirmed by multiple community guides)
What changes when you move it this way
More forward = more stable braking, but more risk of locking the fronts and understeering.
2.Coast ramp angle
Lower ↓ by 5 °1 slider stepestimated rangeRange: 25 – 90 ° · Default: 60 °
Differential ramp angle when lifting off the throttle (engine braking). Same inverted convention as the power ramp: smaller angle = more coast lock; bigger angle = less lock. (unit and range confirmed by ramp-differential convention, value estimated)
What changes when you move it this way
Smaller angle (more coast lock) = more stability when lifting, but can cause understeer on lift-off entry.
This adjustment does not apply to front-wheel-drive cars (the differential acts on the driven axle).
3.Rear toe
Raise ↑ by 0.02 °2 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: -0.10 – 0.50 ° · Default: 0.12 °
Rear axle toe. More toe-in (positive) = more rear stability. (same magnitude caveat as front toe)
What changes when you move it this way
More toe-in greatly stabilises the rear on power, costing a touch of top speed.
How to apply it without losing your afternoon
- 01Change ONE thing at a time and run three clean laps before judging. Two changes at once and you no longer know which one worked.
- 02Start with the first parameter on the list: they are in the order the engine applies them, from the one with most authority to the fine tuning.
- 03If the change goes the right way but falls short, repeat the same step again before touching another parameter.
- 04If it gets worse, put it back. A setup you don't understand is slower than a baseline you do.
Where this sim stores its setups
AMS2 lets you save/load named setups from the garage screen itself (an in-game feature widely documented by the community). The EXACT on-disk file/folder structure could not be verified against a specific public source in this session (unlike ACC/iRacing/rFactor2 in this catalogue, which do have a concrete source) — the verified way to share a community setup is to enter the values by hand in the game's editor.
Want the exact values, not just the direction?
The generator takes your car, your track, the weather, grip and fuel, and returns the full setup with the reasoning behind every number. Free to start.
Car classes covered in this sim: GT3 · GT4 · Cup · Formula · Caterham · Touring · Supercar
Free to start: you only need an account, no card.
If that wasn't it
Symptoms get confused with each other: what feels like poor traction is very often oversteer on throttle. These are the other diagnoses for this sim.
- Understeer on corner entryYou turn in and the car keeps going straight: it washes wide before the apex.
- Mid-corner understeerMid-corner, at steady speed, the car refuses to hold the line and you have to unwind the wheel.
- Understeer on corner exitAs you get on the throttle the car pushes wide and runs out of road on exit.
- Mid-corner oversteerMid-corner the rear keeps sliding on its own and you are correcting with the wheel the whole way through.
- Snap oversteer on throttleYou get on the power on exit and the rear snaps sideways: spin, or a big correction.
- Unstable under brakingBraking hard in a straight line the car moves around, the rear tries to come round or you lock up.
- No traction on corner exitOn exit the driven wheels spin and the car won't hook up: you lose time down the next straight.
- Tyres overheatingGrip falls off after two or three laps and temperature or pressure climbs past the window.
- Tyres not coming up to temperatureThe first laps the car slides everywhere and the tyres take forever to switch on.
- Car bottoming outOver fast sections or compressions the floor hits the track, the car bounces and you lose grip exactly there.
- Unstable over kerbsTouch a kerb and the car jumps, gets unsettled, and you end up avoiding kerbs to keep it.
The same problem in other sims
Same symptom, different parameters: each game exposes different sliders, with other units and other ranges.