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Patagonia Sim Racing · Free diagnosis

Automobilista 2: no traction on corner exit — what to change

What it feels like

On exit the driven wheels spin and the car won't hook up: you lose time down the next straight.

Why it happens and what we're after

Poor traction: soften the rear bar so the wheels follow the road better, add some TC and close the diff's power ramp (more lock).

What to change, exactly

Ranges, steps and defaults are the REAL ones for this sim. The amount is expressed in the game's own unit so you can apply it without converting anything.

Parameters flagged as “estimated range” do not come from a verified in-game capture: the direction of the change is right, the exact magnitude may differ on your car.

  1. 1.Rear anti-roll bar

    Lower ↓ by 5 N/mm1 slider stepestimated range

    Range: 30 – 200 N/mm · Default: 100 N/mm

    Rear axle roll resistance (N/mm). Stiffer = sharper rear and less rear grip. (unit cited by community sources, range estimated)

    What changes when you move it this way

    Softer rear = more traction and rear stability; fixes oversteer.

  2. 2.Traction control (TC)

    Raise ↑ by 11 slider stepestimated range

    Range: 0 – 10 · Default: 5

    How much it cuts power to stop wheelspin on throttle. Higher = intervenes earlier. (genre-generic scale, not AMS2-specifically verified)

    What changes when you move it this way

    More TC = safer in the wet or low grip, but limits acceleration in the dry.

  3. 3.Power ramp angle

    Lower ↓ by 5 °1 slider stepestimated range

    Range: 25 – 90 ° · Default: 45 °

    Angle of the differential's power ramp. The OPPOSITE of a lock %: a smaller angle = a steeper ramp = MORE lock and exit traction; a bigger angle = a shallower ramp = LESS lock, more free rotation. (unit and range confirmed by ramp-differential convention, value estimated)

    What changes when you move it this way

    Smaller angle (steeper ramp) = more lock and exit traction, but too steep tends to snap the rear loose under hard throttle.

    This adjustment does not apply to front-wheel-drive cars (the differential acts on the driven axle).

How to apply it without losing your afternoon

  1. 01Change ONE thing at a time and run three clean laps before judging. Two changes at once and you no longer know which one worked.
  2. 02Start with the first parameter on the list: they are in the order the engine applies them, from the one with most authority to the fine tuning.
  3. 03If the change goes the right way but falls short, repeat the same step again before touching another parameter.
  4. 04If it gets worse, put it back. A setup you don't understand is slower than a baseline you do.

Where this sim stores its setups

AMS2 lets you save/load named setups from the garage screen itself (an in-game feature widely documented by the community). The EXACT on-disk file/folder structure could not be verified against a specific public source in this session (unlike ACC/iRacing/rFactor2 in this catalogue, which do have a concrete source) — the verified way to share a community setup is to enter the values by hand in the game's editor.

Want the exact values, not just the direction?

The generator takes your car, your track, the weather, grip and fuel, and returns the full setup with the reasoning behind every number. Free to start.

Car classes covered in this sim: GT3 · GT4 · Cup · Formula · Caterham · Touring · Supercar

Free to start: you only need an account, no card.

If that wasn't it

Symptoms get confused with each other: what feels like poor traction is very often oversteer on throttle. These are the other diagnoses for this sim.

The same problem in other sims

Same symptom, different parameters: each game exposes different sliders, with other units and other ranges.