Automobilista 2: snap oversteer on throttle — what to change
What it feels like
You get on the power on exit and the rear snaps sideways: spin, or a big correction.
Why it happens and what we're after
Exit oversteer (on power): add TC and rear toe-in, and open the diff's power ramp (too much lock tends to snap the rear loose).
What to change, exactly
Ranges, steps and defaults are the REAL ones for this sim. The amount is expressed in the game's own unit so you can apply it without converting anything.
Parameters flagged as “estimated range” do not come from a verified in-game capture: the direction of the change is right, the exact magnitude may differ on your car.
1.Traction control (TC)
Raise ↑ by 11 slider stepestimated rangeRange: 0 – 10 · Default: 5
How much it cuts power to stop wheelspin on throttle. Higher = intervenes earlier. (genre-generic scale, not AMS2-specifically verified)
What changes when you move it this way
More TC = safer in the wet or low grip, but limits acceleration in the dry.
2.Rear toe
Raise ↑ by 0.02 °2 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: -0.10 – 0.50 ° · Default: 0.12 °
Rear axle toe. More toe-in (positive) = more rear stability. (same magnitude caveat as front toe)
What changes when you move it this way
More toe-in greatly stabilises the rear on power, costing a touch of top speed.
3.Power ramp angle
Raise ↑ by 5 °1 slider stepestimated rangeRange: 25 – 90 ° · Default: 45 °
Angle of the differential's power ramp. The OPPOSITE of a lock %: a smaller angle = a steeper ramp = MORE lock and exit traction; a bigger angle = a shallower ramp = LESS lock, more free rotation. (unit and range confirmed by ramp-differential convention, value estimated)
What changes when you move it this way
Bigger angle (shallower ramp) = less lock, more free rotation on power, but can spin up sooner.
This adjustment does not apply to front-wheel-drive cars (the differential acts on the driven axle).
How to apply it without losing your afternoon
- 01Change ONE thing at a time and run three clean laps before judging. Two changes at once and you no longer know which one worked.
- 02Start with the first parameter on the list: they are in the order the engine applies them, from the one with most authority to the fine tuning.
- 03If the change goes the right way but falls short, repeat the same step again before touching another parameter.
- 04If it gets worse, put it back. A setup you don't understand is slower than a baseline you do.
Where this sim stores its setups
AMS2 lets you save/load named setups from the garage screen itself (an in-game feature widely documented by the community). The EXACT on-disk file/folder structure could not be verified against a specific public source in this session (unlike ACC/iRacing/rFactor2 in this catalogue, which do have a concrete source) — the verified way to share a community setup is to enter the values by hand in the game's editor.
Want the exact values, not just the direction?
The generator takes your car, your track, the weather, grip and fuel, and returns the full setup with the reasoning behind every number. Free to start.
Car classes covered in this sim: GT3 · GT4 · Cup · Formula · Caterham · Touring · Supercar
Free to start: you only need an account, no card.
If that wasn't it
Symptoms get confused with each other: what feels like poor traction is very often oversteer on throttle. These are the other diagnoses for this sim.
- Understeer on corner entryYou turn in and the car keeps going straight: it washes wide before the apex.
- Mid-corner understeerMid-corner, at steady speed, the car refuses to hold the line and you have to unwind the wheel.
- Understeer on corner exitAs you get on the throttle the car pushes wide and runs out of road on exit.
- Oversteer on corner entryAs you release the brake and turn in, the rear steps out and the car rotates too much before the apex.
- Mid-corner oversteerMid-corner the rear keeps sliding on its own and you are correcting with the wheel the whole way through.
- Unstable under brakingBraking hard in a straight line the car moves around, the rear tries to come round or you lock up.
- No traction on corner exitOn exit the driven wheels spin and the car won't hook up: you lose time down the next straight.
- Tyres overheatingGrip falls off after two or three laps and temperature or pressure climbs past the window.
- Tyres not coming up to temperatureThe first laps the car slides everywhere and the tyres take forever to switch on.
- Car bottoming outOver fast sections or compressions the floor hits the track, the car bounces and you lose grip exactly there.
- Unstable over kerbsTouch a kerb and the car jumps, gets unsettled, and you end up avoiding kerbs to keep it.
The same problem in other sims
Same symptom, different parameters: each game exposes different sliders, with other units and other ranges.