Gran Turismo 7: unstable over kerbs — what to change
What it feels like
Touch a kerb and the car jumps, gets unsettled, and you end up avoiding kerbs to keep it.
Why it happens and what we're after
Unstable over kerbs: soften the bars, raise ride height and lower the dampers' compression so the car absorbs the hit instead of jumping.
What to change, exactly
Ranges, steps and defaults are the REAL ones for this sim. The amount is expressed in the game's own unit so you can apply it without converting anything.
Parameters flagged as “estimated range” do not come from a verified in-game capture: the direction of the change is right, the exact magnitude may differ on your car.
1.Front anti-roll bar
Lower ↓ by 11 slider stepestimated rangeRange: 1 – 10 · Default: 5
Front axle roll resistance (abstract 1-10 in-game scale, no documented N·m/deg). Stiffer transfers more load to that axle's outside tyre. (confirmed range, no physical unit)
What changes when you move it this way
Softer front = a more compliant but less responsive suspension.
2.Rear anti-roll bar
Lower ↓ by 11 slider stepestimated rangeRange: 1 – 10 · Default: 4
Rear axle roll resistance (abstract 1-10 in-game scale). Along with the front it sets the car's stiffness balance. (confirmed range, no physical unit)
What changes when you move it this way
Softer rear = more mechanical rear grip, less responsive.
3.Front ride height
Raise ↑ by 3 mm3 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: 50 – 200 mm · Default: 65 mm
Front floor-to-ground distance (unit mm). Lowering it drops the centre of gravity and can add aero load on cars with real aero, risking grounding out. (generic class range, estimated)
What changes when you move it this way
Raising gives more travel and less bottoming risk, costing some aero load and raising the centre of gravity.
4.Rear ride height
Raise ↑ by 3 mm3 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: 50 – 200 mm · Default: 70 mm
Rear ride height. Along with the front it sets the car's 'rake', relevant on cars with a real floor/diffuser. (generic class range, estimated)
What changes when you move it this way
Raising the rear can cut rear aero load if pushed past the optimal point.
5.Front compression damping
Lower ↓ by 22 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: 10 – 50 · Default: 28
Front damper resistance to compression (abstract in-game scale, no documented N·s/mm unit — source: community cheat-sheet guide). Higher = firmer front under compression. (estimated range)
What changes when you move it this way
Lower = more mechanical grip and better over bumps, with a slower response.
6.Rear compression damping
Lower ↓ by 22 slider stepsestimated rangeRange: 10 – 50 · Default: 30
Rear damper resistance to compression. Affects how the rear squats on power and while loaded in a corner. (abstract scale, estimated range)
What changes when you move it this way
Lower = more rear traction and mechanical grip, slower response.
How to apply it without losing your afternoon
- 01Change ONE thing at a time and run three clean laps before judging. Two changes at once and you no longer know which one worked.
- 02Start with the first parameter on the list: they are in the order the engine applies them, from the one with most authority to the fine tuning.
- 03If the change goes the right way but falls short, repeat the same step again before touching another parameter.
- 04If it gets worse, put it back. A setup you don't understand is slower than a baseline you do.
Where this sim stores its setups
GT7 is a console game (PS4/PS5): setups are saved inside the game itself with a custom name (car tuning screen), with no export to an on-disk file. To share a community setup, the verified way is to copy the values by hand into the in-game editor — there is no official telemetry/setup API or export (unlike iRacing).
Want the exact values, not just the direction?
The generator takes your car, your track, the weather, grip and fuel, and returns the full setup with the reasoning behind every number. Free to start.
Car classes covered in this sim: Gr.3 (GT3/GTE real) · Gr.4 (GT4 real)
Free to start: you only need an account, no card.
If that wasn't it
Symptoms get confused with each other: what feels like poor traction is very often oversteer on throttle. These are the other diagnoses for this sim.
- Understeer on corner entryYou turn in and the car keeps going straight: it washes wide before the apex.
- Mid-corner understeerMid-corner, at steady speed, the car refuses to hold the line and you have to unwind the wheel.
- Understeer on corner exitAs you get on the throttle the car pushes wide and runs out of road on exit.
- Oversteer on corner entryAs you release the brake and turn in, the rear steps out and the car rotates too much before the apex.
- Mid-corner oversteerMid-corner the rear keeps sliding on its own and you are correcting with the wheel the whole way through.
- Snap oversteer on throttleYou get on the power on exit and the rear snaps sideways: spin, or a big correction.
- Unstable under brakingBraking hard in a straight line the car moves around, the rear tries to come round or you lock up.
- No traction on corner exitOn exit the driven wheels spin and the car won't hook up: you lose time down the next straight.
- Tyres overheatingGrip falls off after two or three laps and temperature or pressure climbs past the window.
- Tyres not coming up to temperatureThe first laps the car slides everywhere and the tyres take forever to switch on.
- Car bottoming outOver fast sections or compressions the floor hits the track, the car bounces and you lose grip exactly there.
The same problem in other sims
Same symptom, different parameters: each game exposes different sliders, with other units and other ranges.